Exploring the western Flinders Ranges

My visits to the stunning Flinders Ranges in South Australia have always been to the eastern side to explore the popular tourist spots of Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola, but on my last visit I decided to explore the western region of the range.

My journey started at Hawker, about 400km north of Adelaide. Known as the hub for the Flinders, Hawker is the last stop for supplies both now and when it was settled just prior to 1850. Its position was strategic when settled as it was near the rail line, and where tracks and roads run along ridgelines and through the gaps of the mountains allowing access to the eastern fringes.

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Back in the day the Hawker area was known for some of the best wheat in the country and the town boasted four flour mills. The rail line was a vital connection for the area and further north, during WWII, nearly 20,000 servicemen plus loads of equipment passed through Hawker on their way to Darwin.

The next decade saw floods and droughts ravage the area and eventually the line and businesses closed. Today the town thrives on tourism and the passing trade. Around Hawker there are plenty of abandoned buildings from its heyday that dot the landscape.

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Beltana

Heading north along the Outback Highway, with the spectacular ranges to my right, the afternoon sun highlighted the highs and lows of the rugged mountain range. My goal was 125km to the north for the turn off to Beltana and then eventually Warraweena station.

Beltana dates back to the 1850s when settlers came to the area, just 10 years after explorer John Eyre passed through and named several mountains. For many years Beltana was the starting point for expeditions heading north into unexplored regions. It was a slow start for the town, but when the railway was built in 1881, the town swelled as it opened up new areas and gave access to local mining operations.

A dam was built nearby for the steam engines and a grand station was constructed with a permanent station master.

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Unfortunately, most people found the train was too expensive to travel on, and the rail service was mainly used for freight and miners. Nearby at the Leigh Creek coal mine, the demand for coal was so intense from 1950 that the original line was deemed too steep for the massive coal trains so a new line was built to the west of the town across flatter country.

By 1956 the line, its staff and infrastructure was all shut down. Beltana eventually became a ghost town, losing both its mining operations and the railway.

Today Beltana has had a refurbishment with multiple buildings having been restored. There are more than 30 permanent residents in this state-heritage listed town and visitors are welcome to wander around the 22 buildings here and explore the history. Picnic areas, camping sites and walking trails are scattered throughout this amazing outback settlement that once was a bustling centre.

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Warraweena

My end goal was still another 30km to the east of Beltana into the remote and isolated Warraweena Station. The station is located where the Flinders and Gammon ranges meet and it makes for a stunning drive across barren landscapes and through spectacular gorge country. The drive eastward towards Warraweena has long stretches of road passing between ancient rock formations on either side, and crossing over rough dry creek beds before you reach the station’s boundary.

Not long after you enter Warraweena, ruins of the old Sliding Rock copper mine appear on the mountainside where pure copper was found in 1870. With a steady population at nearby Beltana, miners moved to the new copper mine and in 1872 a township was surveyed and called Cadnia, that catered for nearly 500 people.

The mine thrived for nearly 10 years until a massive waterflow was tapped into that flooded the mine. Steam powered pumps couldn’t keep up with dispersing the water from the shafts, and eventually the mine was abandoned and soon after the town closed.

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Today it’s possible to wander around the old mine site where chimneys still stand; there are buildings and foundations to view and sections of the mine can be found. There are also two old cemeteries where early graves date back to 1870. Ironically, today the water in the mine is used for a backup supply for the nearby town of Leigh Creek.

After driving further into Warraweena Station to the main homestead area, the caretaker will be only too happy to help you with accommodation options and give you an outline of what you can see and do. If you like a little luxury, there’s the Shearers Quarters and the Shepherds Hut near the main homestead where you can base yourself for a few days.

If you’re dragging an off-road camper, there are powered sites and also bush sites scattered through the station. Most of these have long-drop toilets, and it’s okay to use the showers near the homestead. There’s a multitude of bush sites that offer different aspects over the property, and these are situated well away from each other providing solitude.

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Challenging terrain

Around Warraweena there’s an array of different 4×4 tracks for different skill levels; some head out to remote lookouts, others head up dry creek beds to hidden waterholes, and the longer ones head to either Old Warraweena or out to old outstation huts.

The sheer ruggedness of this area is incredible and it’s hard to comprehend even trying to breed sheep in this harsh landscape. These days Warraweena has shifted all livestock off the station and now runs as a tourist destination and a state conservation park. Some of the more challenging 4×4 tracks include Cockatoo Loop track and up to Mount Gill, from where you can enjoy superb views across the Flinders and Gammon ranges.

For a fee it’s possible to head out of Warraweena south to Blinman along ‘the old copper track’. This cross-country trek was used back in the late 1800s and linked three major copper mines, and was the main thoroughfare for many years.

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Today it’s an isolated and remote track not suitable for trailers; it’s not maintained and can present a serious challenge where there are severe washouts and old creek beds. The track follows several creek lines and runs over stunning ridges before heading into Moolooloo Station where you can explore the Nuccaleena Mine ruins.

Nuccaleena had a small township near the mine but it didn’t quite last a decade due to its remote location and trouble with transporting the bags of copper out of this rugged area. Once you leave the mine it’s a short drive across Moolooloo Station tracks and into Blinman.

Exploring the western side of the Flinders Ranges, with its rich history, unique station stays and remarkable rock formations – some of the oldest in the world – should be on every four-wheel driver’s bucket list.

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Where is Warraweena Station

Warraweena Station is tucked in between Ikara-Flinders Ranges NP and Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges NP, about a two-hour drive from Hawker in South Australia.

The road east to Warraweena Station off the Outback Highway is unsealed and heads into the remote and isolated territory of the station for nearly 50km. This road passes the historical and heritage-listed township of Beltana and the old Sliding Rock copper mine site.

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Things to do around Warraweena

Warraweena boasts some of the best camping in the Flinders Ranges. There are 4×4 tracks to explore, amazing scenery to enjoy and exhilarating walks to lookouts, old ruins and the old Sliding Rock copper mine site. Outside the Station’s boundary you can learn about the amazing history of Beltana, and for the more adventurous there’s the old Copper Track that runs cross country from Warraweena south to Blinman across remote and isolated county.

Warraweena is only open from March to November and is closed during the summer months. You’ll need to be fully self-sufficient for a stay at Warraweena and manage your fuel consumption if you choose to tackle the station’s 4×4 tracks.